Monteverde and the Quakers

The first 11 Quaker families first came to Costa Rica in 1951 from Alabama because four Friends had been jailed for refusing to serve in the Korean War and the families were seeking somewhere they could live in peace.

Costa Rica had abolished its army and the government was encouraging foreigners to come and develop the land. The Monteverde area was only accessible by oxcart when they first came.

The families purchased over 3700 acres of land to be divided between the families. The Friends helped each family build a house.

They set up Monteverde Friends School, completing the main school building in 1957.  Today it is a bilingual school serving the local community – both Quakers and local Costa Ricans – from pre-school through to high school. There is also at least one foreign exchange student who also lives with our HomeStay family.

The Quakers set up a dairy farm and the Monteverde Cheese Factory, which today produces over a ton of cheese a day. They were also farsighted enough to set aside an area on the mountain slopes as virgin cloud forest – high altitude forest cooled by moist air from the Pacific.  The preserved area was the beginning of conservation in the area which now has a number of reserves including the Children’s Eternal Rain Forest (Bosque Eterno de los Niños) which was started by a Swedish child who had visited the area and went back home to raise money to purchase land for a reserve. That has grown to 54,000 acres of land.

Area reserves are

  • Monteverde Cloud Forest (original Quaker land)

    Hummingbird in a nest
  • Curi-Cancha Reserve

    Male Quetzal Showing Long Tail Feathers
    Male Quetzal Showing Long Tail Feathers
  • Bosque Eterno de los Niños  Fascinating story about how this reserve was started by some children from Sweden in 1987 and has grown to the largest reserve in Central America!
    Orange kneed Tarantula Looks Scary But It Is Harmless
    Motmot Are A Common Sight-Really Blends Into the Trees

    In addition to these large reserves, there are other commercial businesses that are preserving the area with tours and ziplines, etc.

Chocolate…Yum!

We have been on two chocolate tours since we arrived in Monteverde. The first at Don Juan’s was interesting and interactive however the second at Cabure Chocolates was fascinating!

The difference is Bob the owner of Cabure (his wife runs a very good Argentinian restaurant at the same location). Bob has a passion for doing things right, a real artesan chocolatier.

First a bit of history and trivia:

  • Cacao was used in beverages as far back as 1900 b.c.
  • Cacao beans have been used as currency
  • Cacao generally grows from sea level to about 600 meters (just under 2000’)
  • The average worker in Ghana earns less than $1000 per year growing, harvesting, and doing the initial processing of the cacao
  • Cacao trees are fast growing and begin to bear fruit in less than 2 years
  • When the flowers are pollinated, the large hard pod that is formed contains 30-40 cacao beans
  • When the seed pods form they are so big and heavy (up to 20” long) that they grow on the trunk of the tree, not branches

OK, now a bit about the process:

When pods are picked, they are cracked open and the seeds removed from the pulp. It is important to do this quickly so that the beans don’t ferment in the pod. The seeds are placed in a box with no oxygen for 2 days, then dumped into a different box with some air holes for 2 days and finally dumped into another box for an additional 2 days. During the time in the boxes, they are not agitated so some seeds are subjected to more oxygen or alkalization than others. After the 6 days, the tannins are reduced and the beans are dried, usually in the sun.

Suffice it to say that it is not an exact science however if you want really good chocolate, you have to be picky about which beans you buy. Bob is very select about his beans.

Once he receives his beans, usually from Africa, he must roast them. Roasting doesn’t take a long time, definitely under an hour. Then the beans are cracked and winnowed so that only the actual beans are used, not the shells.

The beans are then ground. You may have tried some chocolate nubs at a specialty store. Believe me, the ones I tried in Durango were nothing like Bob’s! I hated the ones I had tried previously but his weren’t bad at this stage.

Next the ground beans are centrifuged which causes the oils to be released. At this point, it looks and tastes like chocolate. There are several more steps to get to the final step which is yummy, yummy stuff whether it is a dark chocolate, a milk chocolate, or even “white chocolate” which is actually just cocoa butter, no non-fat cocoa solids in it.

We got to dip marshmallows into the chocolate and let it harden and of course, eat them. They were good, but my favorite is always dark chocolate with sea salt.

Chocolate covered marshmallows
Chocolate Covered Marshmallows

Easter Week AKA Semana Santa

Costa Rica is a primarily Catholic country and banks and many businesses are closed Thursday-Sunday for Semana Santa and schools are off.

We have been around some of the Quakers (Friends) who settled this area in the early 1950’s and are very comfortable with them. Got up at 4 AM this morning (ugh) and walked in the dark to the school/meeting location which is about a 25 minute walk from where we live. NO cars passed us as we walked and when we arrived there were only about 2-3 people there just before the sun was going to rise about 5. We sat on benches facing the east and while the trees block actually seeing the sun, we sat there as it got light. I was shocked to see that there were at least 45 people there by the time we gathered for a pot luck breakfast about 6.

Very open/loving group and the services are primarily meditation with a few thoughts/comments at the end.